Photos, photos and more photos

Since I have very little time in the last months, here are just some unsorted impressions of my last (partly adventure, partly business) trip to Ethiopia and Somaliland. Sorry that there are no titles. However, if you want to get the real feelings, go there for yourself! ;-)

Feels like long time ago

For me it feels like a long time ago, when I visited Ethiopia and Somaliland for the first time. It happened a lot since the summer of 2010 but one thing never changed. I always dreamed of going back - every single day I was in thoughts. Finally the day of my return comes closer and on 4th February '13 I'm heading back to Addis Abeba and later on again to Hargeisa.

This time I'll try to keep my memories in place and not to write everything from memory almost a year later. I will also take more photos of my time there, since I got a new, smaller camera which isn't so big and obvious for most of the people.

I hope to make a stop in Harar this year and not in Jijiga, because I definitely want to try to take a picture of me feeding the hyenas with meat on a small stick which I have in my mouth. Sounds creepy, looks creepy and I'm sure I'm gonna shit my pants by doing this - so it meets all the criteria I have for doing something.

Let's hope this trip is going better than the last one and that everything is relaxed this time. When there are news coming up, I'll keep you posted!

Somaliland: Wajale and the Khat spitting checkpoint soldiers

My last stop was Jijiga from where I took the bus to Wajale, the border town to Somaliland.

Now I was sitting in the overcrowded bus, holding my knees almost behind my ears and riding through the desert. The street we used was the only one around 100km in all directions but was in surprisingly very good condition. I was told that the street was built only one year ago. Good for us! We drove almost one hour only straight and faaaar away we already could see the two hills of Hargeisa. But that was still more than 100km.

Main Street in Wajale the border town

We stopped for the first time when we came to a check point. Everybody had to go out of the bus and some soldiers came along to check our passports. After 10 minutes we could go back and move on. No problems. After maybe 15 more minutes again a checkpoint. A female soldier came into the bus, looked around, noticed me and called "Passport, brother!".

During the stay outside I found another non-black passanger in the bus: a Japanese called Masa. He was the same age like me, 23, and guess what? He came to make photos! We talked a bit and as it turned out later it was good to have someone with me.

We stopped some more times until we reached the border town called Wajale. After we, Masa and me, left the bus and got our luggage from the bus roof we were looking disoriented around because no one of us knew where to go. Suddenly but expected some boys came to us and told us that if we want to go to Somaliland we had to go the Emmigration Office of Ethiopia first to "check out". Then we'd to go to the Immigration Office of Somaliland to check in to Somaliland.

Hargeisa big money - 4$

My bed

The boys brought us to the Emmigration Office and of course they wanted some money for walking 40m. No thanks! I don't have much money anyway... We knocked the door but no one way in the house. After a minute a man came, opened the door and invited us to have a seat. We told him that we wanted to go to Somaliland and so he passed over a paper, kind of a list of all foreigners going to Somaliland. When we put our names in the list and got a stamp on our visa we left for the Immigration Office on the other side of the street. 

As I entered the office there was a guy who asked for my passport and my visa for Somaliland. When he saw that I'm German he got crazy and told me that he loves German football! "Maybe it's not that bad as a German... at least better than been American!" I thought.

Again I got a stamp and when Masa got his stamp we left for looking for a vehicle which can bring us to Hargeisa. That didn't seem to be an easy task so we headed up first for a money changer. I changed 10$ to Somaliland Shilling what was pretty funny because I never had such a bunch of notes in my hand! 1$ is around 13 notes of 500 Shilling. If you ever saw the money changers in the streets of Hargeisa you know what I mean.

First hot shower in one week

After a while talking to some people someone said that his brother has a car and will leave to Hargeisa soon. He's looking for some people to come with him so we decided to check that possibility. The brother came soon to us and told that his car is brand new, he bought it two weeks ago and that it has a high comfort. Comfort - a word I missed the last 800km! No problem, we're in Africa...

So we decided to go with this guy. When we reached his brand new car I was a bit surprised to see an 20 years old Toyota, but who cares. Somehow we will reach Hargeisa. We discussed about the price and we agreed to 140 Birr for the ride. That is around 8-9$ - more expensive than in Ethiopia, because (I was told that) everyone wants to go to Hargeisa - a booming city as I will see later. We put our luggage in the trunk and the guy said that I should sit down on the left side. So I sat down on the left in the back. LUCKY ME!!! When I was in the car I saw that the steering wheel was on the right side and the driver told Masa to sit down on the co-driver seat. We thought that we will leave now but that was wrong. In the next hour we were waiting for some more passengers and if you want to know how many people came in: it have been 4. 7 people in the sedan. Nice! But the best part was: first there came three people to sit on the back seats with me. Then there came another woman who wanted to come with us so the driver told Masa to sit down on the center console between the front seats: no back rest, head at the roof and my favourite part -  the gear stick between his legs, so everytime the driver had to gang he had to put his hand to Masa's balls!

Hargeisa street life

When we left more than two hours had passed and I became a bit angry for wasting so much time. We drove for maybe 10 minutes when we stopped and picked up a child which was sitting in the trunk behind my back. Nice... then we suddenly turned around and drove back! What the heck?! Masa turned around and was also wondering what happened. After a minute I asked why we drive back to Wajale. And the answer I got was the most annoying one I got on this whole trip: I forgot to refuel!!! That's impossible! How can that be?! That was so annoying but what could I do: TIA - this is Africa! You can`t do anything. Maybe I'm just too German - in time, tidy, prepared... (hahaha I'm not but that is what everybody thinks about Germans).

After refueling we finally headed up to Hargeisa. The 70km ride took around 5h through the Somali desert. Again a lot check points where everytime a Khat chewing soldier came to our car, spoke to the driver, while speaking spitted some nice green pieces of the Khat around and into the car, and then let us drive by. Most wanted to see my passport but no problems at all. I think it have been 5 check points. 

Inside "Oriental Hotel"

After 5 hours we reached the outskirts of Hargeisa and drove to the city centre where we were dropped of at the Oriental Hotel. Masa had made a reservation there before and I decided to stay at this hotel too. It was 25$ or 15$ a night, I'm not sure. We checked in and decided to have an ice cold Coke, then have a shower and after that we would go around to check our new home and location.

"Damn, first warm shower on my trip"... My last thoughts for today.

Jijiga clubbing (and prostitutes)

I wish I'd have had my photo camera with me this evening.

As I sat down with this guy in front of my cell eeeh room in the so-called hotel, I asked him, if he could set up my mobile with the new Ethiopian sim card because my Amaric wasn't good enough (haha) to understand what the voice was telling me. I sent an sms to my girlfriend. Didn't work. Good! I tried for some times and after this disappointing result I changed the sim card back to my German one.

When the waitress came we ordered a beer. I think it was around 10 Birr for 0,5L St. George beer, what is around 0,60US$. What a price! The guy, I don't remember his name, worked in Jijiga for few years as a plumber. He told me that this city is surprisingly boring (what do you expect in the middle of the desert, at the boondocks?!) but he will meet a friend this evening. He asked me if I wanna join them, they wanted to go to a bar. So after my second beer we went to see his friend in this bar. It is a traditional bar, he said, so don't wonder if people are looking strange at you. Oh really? Haven't seen a white person for more than one day!

The bar was cool, looked like something in the Caribbean with bamboo bar, loud traditional music etc.. We found his friend and sat down. The music was so loud that it was hard to order something or not to mention to have a conversation. So we only drank some more beer and suddenly all was black! Some how I wasn't shocked or surprised. I don't know why but I think the atmosphere in such an area makes you prepared for everything - getting chased, getting stopped by AK47 militias, running for you life, straaange food and even blackouts. Seconds later the bar staff came around and put candles everywhere so at least we could see something. It took a few minutes and suddenly there was music again. But not in our bar! It was the bar next door. A minute later we were on power again and music was as loud as hell again. Beer....beer...beer...beer.... blackout... beer...beer. The bar next door was on power before us again so we decided to leave and go there.

Now when I'm writing that I wonder why it didn't feel that strange doing it as it feels like by remembering it.

In the Somali region desert

As we entered the bar next door we went to a pillar in the middle of the room, to get somewhere to lean on besides we had a little table there. So we bought some more beer and drank. After a while the guys with me asked me which girl I like in that bar. I told them that I have a girlfriend but I showed them a girl that looked really pretty. She must have been around 20 years old. One of the guys asked me if they should talk to her and I said no. That didn't seem to be of any interest to them so one of them went to her and brought her to our "table". She only spole Amaric but that didn't seem to bother her. She danced me up and after a while I joined in. My guys worked as interpreters between her and me. So after maybe one hour one of the guys asked me if I wanted to take her with me. He told me that she said that I'm a handsome guy and blablabla... Now I understood! I'd never do that anyway but just out of curiousity I asked how much she costs. It was 500 Birr what is around 30US$ or 25€. So much?! At the end of the world?! That is the same price I'd have to pay in Germany for a shabby one! I mean she looked good but... how the fcuk is that possible? I told the guys that they could tell her that I have a girlfriend and by the way I never pay for that. She asked if I'm sure on that because if I am she'd go in the next room because there is a guy who wants her. Yeah, I'm quite damn sure.

After this answer she turned around and left - without saying anything, even not thank you for the beers! What a bitch!

It was late anyway and I've had a few so I decided to go back to my room. I also had to leave at 8am so one of the guys brought me back to my hotel. Meanwhile it was raining like shit and the sandy streets became damn muddy. After saying good bye to my companion I locked myself in the room and went to bed.

Nice evening at all!

After a few hours of sleep I woke up because the hotel staff was cleaning the floor infront of the rooms. Too bad that there stood some metal chairs and tables and they didn't seem to be interested that it was 5:30am and maybe someone was still sleeping. Well, not anymore. I got up at 7am and packed my stuff and left the room. There were some people in the dining room and I asked them where the mini bus station is from where I can get to Wujale, the border town to Somaliland. One of the guys was so nice that he brought me with his motorcycle taxi to the bus station.

After a few minutes of asking around I was brought to the right bus and again a few minutes later of negotiating I gave my luggage to the roof and sat down in the bus.

We left Jijiga and drove through the desert.

Addis Abeba to Jijiga, please

The next morning (I went back to Taitu Hotel because I knew that there is internet access) 40$ left. Damn it, I need money! I wrote an email to my mother. Most of my money is in my big luggage which is stuck in Amsterdam but I need money - that's what I told her. If she can send me.... maybe 200€ what is around 255US$ by Western Union. Well not that much money but at least it is something plus that would make my adventure much more... interesting! I need to go really cheap. So once again a day went by. I was going around with a guy who showed me the main post station and invited me for - guess what? Right" - Injera. I bought some post cards which looked like they are from the 70s. There don't seem to be many people who wanna send post cards from Ethiopia. I'm wondering why? I decided to send a card with two black, completely naked guys with spears in their hands to my neighbour who once in a while seemed to be a bit racist. Harrharrharr... nice one!

Outside the bus

After that we took a ride by mini bus to Bole area, where some embassies are to get my Somaliland visa. I applied for a tourist visa in an office which looked like a big garage. Few minutes later I was brought to the office of the ambassador who gave me the necessary stamp and we left. Next stop was a Western Union shop to receive my money (thank God!) and from there we took a ride to the Selam Bus station. Selam Bus is one of the two big bus companies in Ethiopia. Their slogan is: "German quality, Chinese prices!". Before we reached the office - again a small garage like room - we had to go through some sandy, muddy ways and broken down houses. In front of the office there stood a lot old big busses which had to be repaired. I was glad to hear that the bus I'd take would be another one - a big western like coach. Nice! But German quality? Couldn't wait to see it! 12€ for the ticket to Harar what is around 700km from Addis I think. Well, price seems to be Chinese. Let's wait for the quality.

Ethiopian highlands

This night I stood in a cheaper hotel which cost around 8€ per night. Again no warm water and the shower didn't look very trustworthy so I decided to wait for the next shower. Again. The third day. Yummy! I'm in Africa, that was my comfort. I went to bed early because I had to leave very early in the morning. Around 4:45h I went out of the hotel and took the taxi which I ordered last day and stood in front of the door. All Selam busses leave from a very big square in the middle of the city so I left and waited for my bus. I was suprised to see such a new busses when nearly everything seems to come from the 70s here.

Sweet litte me in the coach

My bus left at 6:00 in the morning just in time and when the sun rose, the rainy clouds disappeared. Good start. Inside the bus everything looked like we know it from a western coach. Two TVs with nice Amaric movies about college students in love, murderers and a suicide. Everything a good movie needs. I don't remember the name of the bus brand, but I remeber that it definetly wasn't German but Chinese also. Didn't matter, the bus was cool and much better than I expected. During the drive all passengers got a piece of cake and cool drinks what I found very good and nice.

With a hour break we had a 11h ride and arrived at 5pm in Harar. My plan was to take a room for a night and on the next day I wanted to drive via Jijiga to the border to Somaliland and then Hargeisa. When we arrived I was told that there is a Muslim festival in three days in Harar and most of the hotels are fully booked or if free they take four times the prices they usually take.

Big camel flock

Inside the mini bus

No thanks, where is the mini bus station?! I decided to take the next mini bus to Jijiga. The sun went down slowly and I thought the sooner I leave the better it is, because I heared that driving in a mini bus in the night isn't the best idea. Soon I found the bus station and after a few minutes seesaw with the driver I sat in the bus which soon got full. We left the station with 16 people in the bus what I heared later isn't that bad at all. With 24 people it becomes poky I was told. Well, good for me!

Landscape around Jijiga

During the ride I saw on the right side of the street a crashed mini bus with a blue canvas over it and maybe 50m further on the left side another crashed car with a blue canvas as well. The guy besides me, his name is Yonathan, told that these cars crashed into each other few days ago and because it is in the middle of nowhere the dead bodys are still under the canvas. That really appeased me!

My bed in my "prison cell"

Door and window of the "hotel room"

After 3 hours we reached Jijiga and lucky me my neighbour Yonathan wanted to show me around a bit. He brought me to a "hotel" which looked more like a prison. But I couldn't complain. It was the cheapest hotel I had on my whole trip - 2,5€ a night! A very large bed, a bucket to pee into and one small green light bulb at the ceiling. Pretty cool! The window and the door where made of metal what underlined the prison-like feeling. I left my stuff in my room and went with my new mate to a restaurant which is called Restaurant Djibouti. Very good food in a strange, end of the world atmosphere, sitting in a large, neon-lighted room, eating and watching Al Jazeera. Awesome!

After dinner he left me and I went back to the hotel where I soon found a guy sitting right in front of my door at a table. He had a beer and I asked him to sit down to him....